The day held some unexpected surprises and also some not-so-pleasant shocks. A mixed bag, here’s a quick run through the first half of an evening (Act 2 later) that unfolded like a long Indian film that could have easily have shed off several collections for crisper content…
Maheen Khan is effortlessly elegant and that vision for minimalist chic showed in her collection. Like the classic Chanel jacket that never goes out of style, Maheen’s designs have become her signature and showcase the utmost expertise of design and good taste, that can only be a veteran’s handwork.
Menswear brand DnF showcased the exact same streak that they did last season; their collection walked the thin line between here and there. Meaning, it was humdrum. Picking up an international trend and using it does not impress unless you have the skill to redefine and reinvent it. There was very little innovation here.
Debutant Zari Faisal showed potential though she didn’t quite ‘arrive’ with this coral-infused luxury pret collection. It was a young designer taking very safe steps into an industry that thrives on ideas, experimentation and edge. I do think she can find it if she tries.
Lawn has no place in a fashion week unless it is part of a designer’s ready to wear, pret collection. That said, one has respect for textile giants like Orient, who have the capacity to reinvent with just that. It would be great to see an ‘Orient by XYZ’ designer collection of R2W garments next time.
With his ode to 150 years of stripes, Aamir Baig showed an improvement from his last FW showing though he still remained within very safe and secure limits. How wrong can you go with stripes? That said, he did go wrong with the ill-fitting of clothes that were minimalist and so dependant on the fitting entirely. Plus, since he retails from commercial outlets and this was a ready to wear line, I’d like to know where is the market for mini-skirts and tight dresses in Pakistan? It would have been good to see stripes recreated for wearable clothes too.
The puns on this collection are endless but it has to be said that this is one collection that should not have left the jungle. Fashion has to come from the heart and soul of a designer and for a woman who wears the hijab, Mona Imran showed double standards by sending her models out in mini-skirts. Designers are supposed to create what they would wear, they at least should be in love with everything they design. But beyond the philosophy behind SAFARI, there was nothing desirable in the collection either. It should not have been given a green ticket.
Ayesha Hasan’s Zillij would have been a very decent collection had it not been so needlessly inspired by Sania Maskatiya’s Lokum. There were hints of the Dilkash print too. From the calligraphy scripts to the silken silhouettes there was just too much resemblance to be able to absorb and appreciate the few original pieces which were actually not bad at all. A big vote of approval for Alyzeh Rahim, who styled the show, adding interesting adornments to the models’ hair and feet (see left).
All photographs (except the one above) by Faisal Farooqui at Dragonfly courtesy the super troupers at Lotus who sent e-journals out at 6 am. Also, a note to the Fashion Pakistan Team who put the Fashion Directory together: thank you for the information but you guys can clearly not proof read hence the numerous typos. I volunteer to proof read your directory next season, if only to save the English language and grammar from assault.